Mess, Hackney Central
38 Amhurst Rd
020 8985 3194
Breakfast served: weekdays 7am - 5pm, Saturday 8am - 6pm, Sunday 8am - 4pm
by Hashley Brown
On rainy Sundays when skies are grey, and breakfasting beckons from a more leisurely post-meridian hour it’s reassuring to find a cosy café full of kindred spirits that‘ll serve you a hearty breakfast - and such was the prevailing ambience at Mess.
Grey skied inclement Hackney is never the most inviting of places, but Mess shone through like a glistening jewel of fat in a good gravy. With deep blue walls and enough pine cladding and furniture to put a Scandinavian sauna to shame it had a busyness that was both warm and inviting - it almost effervesced. Still packed right up til its 4pm closing the menu boasted a range of breakfast fare from the Full E. through to various scrambled egg derivatives.
Choices were made, a full English for me, scrambled eggs with smoked salmon for her, accompanied by subsidiary tea and juices. The ‘Mess breakfast’ came with the usual bacon (crispy), egg (runny), mushrooms (done in a pan with butter) and tomatoes (tomato-y) with the addition of hearty fried potatoes and a mysterious sausage. I say mysterious in that its somewhat standard outer appearance belied a herby meaty inner that was pleasantly surprising. Scrambled eggs came in a freshly-cooked moist pile with a more than generous amount of salmon littering the eggy base, all heaped on good white toast. Service too was excellent, with staff not playing a Big Brother eviction charade as soon as they closed, letting the lethargic linger over post-prandial tea.
Breakfast for two for just shy of a tenner - full marks for both, and happy tummies all round