Café Express, King's Cross
139 King's Cross Rd
020 7278 1535
by Mabel Syrup
Oh the anger! The rage! The long deep plunge of disappointment on discovering my favourite haven of breakfast is dark and apologetic on a Friday morning. Konstam, how could you let me down so? My fingers and toes are crossed that your refurbishment will not destroy your much loved atmosphere.
But where to now? Many a time have I danced past the doors of the Café Express in anticipation of a Konstam, scoffing at those who didn’t know what they were missing. But now it is my turn to sample their wares and my companion and I slink into our chairs and peruse the extensive breakfast menu. The options are mainly all the same, differing only in number of eggs or rashers. We both plump for the Full English (two eggs, two rashers, toast and marmalade, juice and tea or coffee for £4.80).
This is a normal caff, done up with what might have appeared to those who chose it as classy, but ended up soulless, the equivalent of what happens to a well-loved old man’s pub given the ‘gastro’ treatment. Except the food is the same as it always was: proper caff food. The eggs are cooked perfectly and drip off my chin in a very unprofessional manner as we get through our agenda. The bacon's not crispy as is my preference but cooked on both sides and the right amount of salty. The toast is made of sliced, bagged bread and the marmalade is the individual packet stuff that tastes of washing up liquid.
Should you be in a similar situation, I would suggest walking up towards Farringdon rather than staying here. That’s not to say it was bad, it just wasn’t special. Unless you count the smell downstairs in the toilets that smacked of poor – or rather no – aeration. That was special.