Honest Food, Brixton
424 Coldharbour Lane
0207 738 6161
by Eggmund Hillary
Perhaps it is a good sign that the blogs and online-user-review-pages for Honest Food are awash with strong differences of opinion. Or perhaps it’s just Brixton in general that sparks these debates. Is it part of the (often unwelcome) bourgeoisation / gentrification of the area or a welcome addition to the greasy spoons and sandwich shops of the area? Is it an over-priced, under-staffed veggie space that belongs in West London or a quiet little haven from the bustle of Coldharbour Lane?
After this morning’s hour long sitting, I would have to lump for the latter in both cases. OK, so the shelves are filled with delicacies that might not find much of a clientele in the area - pickled onion in thyme and pepper anyone? Or perhaps some organic Indian fish rub (blended in Yorkshire)? And the only newspaper being consumed was the Saturday Guardian. But all that aside, we at LRB are about the brekkie, so how was it?
Whilst the coffee certainly took longer to arrive than it should, I have to admit to not even noticing the delay. Something to do with the quiet, welcoming surroundings and the Kate Nash interview in the Guardian Guide. The breakfast followed soon after. It consisted of multi-seed toast (from a choice of four different kinds of bread) with melted butter, two fried eggs just the right side of runny, two large and tasty mushrooms, two crisp veggie sausages, fried tomatoes and a potato pancake. Quality ingredients all round, including coarse salt and black pepper, made this well worth the £5.95 price tag. With friendly service throughout and a healthily active community noticeboard for anyone looking for local yoga or pilates classes, Honest Food is a welcome addition to Brixton’s breakfast scene. You’ll just have to leave your Daily Telegraph at the door.