The London Review of Breakfasts

"Hope is a good breakfast, but it is a bad supper." (Francis Bacon)

Monday, July 23, 2007

Uplands Bar and Brasserie, East Dulwich

Uplands Bar and Brasserie
90 Crystal Palace Road
East Dulwich
SE22
020 8693 2662

by Herby Banger

This is a story of redemption; because today I have taken a risk, a gamble on a venue up until today banished and removed from the breakfasting dictionary of East Dulwich. It was at The Uplands Tavern that I witnessed our editor try and fail to eat what he still describes today as the worst breakfast he has ever had. This I might add was years ago now, well before the LRB, and in many respects this incident could be perceived by historians as one of the motivating factors behind the very inception of this project.

However, time is a great healer and in my case I was ready to give the place another chance. I’m glad I did, because I have just come back from one of the best breakfasts I’ve had in this area for a long time. East Dulwich is awash with greasy spoons, but since the Two Trees has shut there remain very few options for a finer cooked breakfast, with better ingredients, but we can etch The Uplands on to this list; well for now, anyway. Because this is the point: places change, chefs come and go, and people learn from their mistakes.

In 2007 you get a chunky plate of food for a reasonable £4.50, starring 2 thick and meaty quality sausages grilled delightfully. Two eggs accompany, well fried and (pls note editor!) cooked throughout. The bacon is well done, hot and snapping to attention. Grilled tomato, grilled mushroom, beans and a rack of toast make up the rest. Take into account a full selection of papers, airy light surroundings and the chance to order a pint if you choose, and I reckon you’ve found a good place to relax and enjoy breakfast at the weekend. As gambles go this one paid out.

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