Franklins, East Dulwich
157 Lordship Lane
020 8299 9598
(Full breakfast menu served Saturdays only, from 10am - 4pm)
by Herby Banger and Tina Beans
Whispers in the shadows, rumours and seductive hearsay were all pointing to one thing. Franklins, the best restaurant in Dulwich, and some say South East London, also dabbled in cooking breakfasts. And what an experience it was meant to be: the teller told all with the sideways grin and twinkling eyes of someone who had struck breakfast gold.
So last Saturday we arrived at Franklins, took a seat in the beautifully light surroundings of their restaurant section, and ordered two Full English cooked breakfasts. We sat back to wait, already aware that this could be breakfast history in the making.
Our lattes arrived first, veritable goblets of fine hot coffee that soothed the soul, as we watched with pleasure the gentlemen chefs made visible by the open wall to the kitchen. Inside they busied themselves like ants; carefully constructing our food, each one knowing perfectly what was required of the other. No fuss, no speaking, just judgment, care and expertise.
We can say that with confidence now, because these Rembrandts of the breakfast world, these craftsmen, produced simply the best breakfast we have had since forever. It was if all other breakfasts had been merely in black and white; Franklins, however, have discovered colour. Everything was unspeakably tasty. The grilled tomato did that rare thing of shedding off any vegetable confusion and proved itself as a delicate fruit, fragrant and succulent and exploding in your mouth. The homemade black pudding was a delight. The sausage was strong, and dense, as was the bacon that tasted as if the pig had slept under a duvet upon a cloud. Then the eggs, oh the eggs. Golden, moist, soft scrambled eggs that put all other attempts to shame. We have never tasted eggs this wonderful. All this and a mushroom and some fine toast for £7.
We swoon for this breakfast.