The London Review of Breakfasts

"Hope is a good breakfast, but it is a bad supper." (Francis Bacon)

Thursday, September 03, 2009

Trattoria Sapori, Newington Green

Trattoria Sapori
Alliance House
44/45 Newington Green
Newington Green
N16 9QH
020 7704 0744
www.trattoriasapori.co.uk

by Gregg E. Bread

Our indulgent post-bruncheon gelatos inspired a re-telling of the incidents surrounding the biggest ice-cream I have ever consumed. Six stupendo scoops scoffed at the Trevi Fountain, Year 10 school trip, Easter 1997. I made two wishes whilst I sat there licking away, sticky faced and foreign. Firstly, I wanted to lose the millstone of my virginity to a goth named Lindsey, and, secondly, I wanted England to qualify for the World Cup.

Both wishes came true. Both featured young English lads making their debut. Both led toward early exits and a now familiar sense of disappointment. Happily my LRB debut turned out to be a considerably longer and more satisfying run-out on the home-turf of Newington Green. A sunny morning combined with the ability to perceive the sound of traffic as birdsong, meant that my cohort M and I were able to dine alfresco, perched atop the wooden terrace.

I played it safe and plumped for the Italian breakfast; eggs, pancetta, Italian sausage, tomato, mushrooms and ciabatta, washed down with a latte. M jazzed things up by ordering the open omelette with parma ham, shaved parmesan, rocket and cherry tomatoes, choosing to suck down on a freshly squeezed apple juice.

I thought we were onto a winner when they asked how I’d like my eggs. They came poached to oozy perfection. The pancetta was crisp and the sausages truly meaty. What’s more the cleanliness of it all left me with a healthy Mediterranean after-glow rather than the traditional Full English edgy meat sweat. My only beefs were the inane button mushrooms – do they ever actually taste of mushroom? – and, be warned, the tartier than tart apple juice,

Throw in some chipper service, another round of decent coffee and the aforementioned gelatos for a touch over twenty British and, believe you me, others have wished for far, far less.

6 Comments:

Anonymous Brian Sauce said...

dynamite stuff! goths and their lovers always did have the bigger brains

2:23 PM, September 03, 2009  
Blogger AS said...

Briliantly, beautifully written. I hope to read more from you soon.

2:37 PM, September 03, 2009  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

sounds like the perfect place for my brunch, thanks for the tip

11:39 PM, September 15, 2009  
Anonymous side_order said...

Could do better (at reviewing breakfasts).

3:12 PM, October 15, 2009  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

lypncarhYou know this place Trattoria Sapori seems in times like this, are trying damn hard to give the true essence of Italian food made with the old tradition in mind, now I tried the pasta e fagioli ( I think you spell like that) and it was great, I mean how many places do this dish?

Going back to the breakfast, I've had it twice and to be honest the first time was about three months ago and it was delayed somewhat, but then again the place just opened. The second time was a few days ago and the breakfast Italian style is the best in newington green area, I also tried the open omelette's, and with parma ham, cherry tomato and flakes Parmesan cheese my wife loved it.

Then again Italians don't have this for breakfast but they do it well ~I think

I guess the Itlains in this place are trying hard to please the locals with a better quality, healthy option to the average local greasy spoon.

PS: The pizza's and pasta are really something.....

10:34 PM, October 31, 2009  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

You know this place Trattoria Sapori seems in times like this, are trying damn hard to give the true essence of Italian food made with the old tradition in mind, now I tried the pasta e fagioli ( I think you spell like that) and it was great, I mean how many places do this dish?

Going back to the breakfast, I've had it twice and to be honest the first time was about three months ago and it was delayed somewhat, but then again the place just opened. The second time was a few days ago and the breakfast Italian style is the best in newington green area, I also tried the open omelette's, and with parma ham, cherry tomato and flakes Parmesan cheese my wife loved it.

Then again Italians don't have this for breakfast but they do it well ~I think

I guess the Itlains in this place are trying hard to please the locals with a better quality, healthy option to the average local greasy spoon.

PS: The pizza's and pasta are really something.....

10:34 PM, October 31, 2009  

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