The London Review of Breakfasts

"Hope is a good breakfast, but it is a bad supper." (Francis Bacon)

Monday, January 22, 2007

Café Express, King's Cross

Café Express
139 King's Cross Rd
King's Cross
020 7278 1535

by Mabel Syrup

Oh the anger! The rage! The long deep plunge of disappointment on discovering my favourite haven of breakfast is dark and apologetic on a Friday morning. Konstam, how could you let me down so? My fingers and toes are crossed that your refurbishment will not destroy your much loved atmosphere.

But where to now? Many a time have I danced past the doors of the Café Express in anticipation of a Konstam, scoffing at those who didn’t know what they were missing. But now it is my turn to sample their wares and my companion and I slink into our chairs and peruse the extensive breakfast menu. The options are mainly all the same, differing only in number of eggs or rashers. We both plump for the Full English (two eggs, two rashers, toast and marmalade, juice and tea or coffee for £4.80).

This is a normal caff, done up with what might have appeared to those who chose it as classy, but ended up soulless, the equivalent of what happens to a well-loved old man’s pub given the ‘gastro’ treatment. Except the food is the same as it always was: proper caff food. The eggs are cooked perfectly and drip off my chin in a very unprofessional manner as we get through our agenda. The bacon's not crispy as is my preference but cooked on both sides and the right amount of salty. The toast is made of sliced, bagged bread and the marmalade is the individual packet stuff that tastes of washing up liquid.

Should you be in a similar situation, I would suggest walking up towards Farringdon rather than staying here. That’s not to say it was bad, it just wasn’t special. Unless you count the smell downstairs in the toilets that smacked of poor – or rather no – aeration. That was special.


Anonymous Anonymous said...

I'll join you in a good bout of sky-rending if they mess up Konstam's redecoration.

Actually, thinking of next-bests around this area, why not try Muratori? It's back down Kings X Road towards Exmouth Market, and a favourite of posties, cabbies and, er, twatties like me.

1:52 PM, January 23, 2007  
Blogger London Review of Breakfasts said...

I'm sad to announce that Konstam has actually closed. This is nothing but a tragedy for London's breakfasting community - a harsh, unexpected tragedy. We'll miss you, Konstam's bubble & squeak. We'll miss you, Konstam's perfect eggs. We'll miss you, always.

Malcolm Eggs
31st January 2007

4:06 PM, January 31, 2007  
Anonymous Anonymous said...


That's ruined EVERYTHING.

12:08 PM, February 02, 2007  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I am right now fashioning a wreath of streaky bacon lovingly garnished with maple syrup to lay at the headstone of my beloved Konstam.

Repast in Peace.

12:04 PM, February 03, 2007  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I reckon the reviewer skimped a little here, and should have explored the menu further. The same family have been running the Express for donkeys years and they've got it down to a fine art. I reckon the food is the absolute best you can do for the price - and beautifully cooked. A proper trad caff.

Muratori's not bad but the food's not up to Express Cafe standards.

4:27 PM, March 26, 2008  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

The toilets stunk and the owner's son, Pavlos, reeked of BO. Avoid at all costs.

3:54 PM, June 21, 2010  

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