The London Review of Breakfasts

"Hope is a good breakfast, but it is a bad supper." (Francis Bacon)

Monday, July 02, 2007

The Breakfast Club, Islington

The Breakfast Club
31 Camden Passage
020 7226 5454

by Rhys Chris Peese

Ah, the 1980s. Mass unemployment; the poll tax; the crippling of the NHS… there’s just so much to be nostalgic about. And of course John Hughes’ 1985 paean to high school conformity, The Breakfast Club. Sharing the film’s name, Islington’s branch of the Soho all-day eatery chooses to celebrate some of the more grating corners of that decade on a cork board decorated with retro vinyl: Wham, Paul Young, Madonna… and Ernie, The Fastest Milkman In The West. Surely that charted in 1971? Let’s not quibble over details.

Perhaps having heeded Poppy Tartt’s difficulties at the Soho branch, the ‘Full Monty’ breakfast takes pride of place at the head of the cartoon-themed menu. My expectations of plenitude were whetted by the oversized cup of tea, but even I, a seasoned eater of large breakfasts, was impressed by what seven quid gets you in N1.

This was the twelve inch remix of an English breakfast. The pork and leek sausages were a succulent delight, the beans a steaming orange ocean, the toast sturdy to the point of intransigence. These accompanied a mountain of hash browns, and no bland pre-formed patties, neither: this was a big old pile of fried potatoes and onions, positively rustic in the roughness of their cut. Clearly the kitchen staff enjoy cooking. But apparently they enjoy cooking some things a bit too much: the mushrooms and the bacon were overdone, and while both had an admirable richness of flavour, this was at the expense of almost any moisture.

The Breakfast Club also offers smoothies, porridge, eggs Benedict, wooden floors, mismatched furniture and internet access, although if I return it’ll be for the All American: a massive helping of eggs, pancakes, bacon and maple syrup. Because if the 1980s taught us anything, it was that ‘greed is good’.


Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thanks Rhys- feedback much appreciated and glad you enjoyed it. Will work on bacon and mushrooms. Ernie - number 1 December 1971 - month Ali, our Boss Hogg was born. She'll hate me for divulging her age.

Sheriff Rosco P. Coltrane
AKA Jonathan
The Breakfast Club

7:19 PM, July 03, 2007  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Excellent ingredients, good bacon, sausages, bread. Tea could be leaf or a better quality bag. Orange juice, though fresh, appeared to be dilute. Fruit salad had traces of onion flavour.

Good atmosphere, charming descreet service, and I would return.

11:09 AM, August 24, 2007  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Terrible, I when there last night for dinner with a friend. Arrived at 5 pm ordered food 10 - 15 mins later. Then they forgot to place our order. but kept on assuring us that the food would be with us in 10 mins. This went on for 45 mins, then we got told the kitchen hadn't made the order.

The starter finally arrived an 1 hour after being placed. Then to added further insult to injury once the start was done with we got told the main dishes would be down in 10 mins. 25 mins later still no food, again the order hadn't been placed and the staff told us it would be down in 5 and they were very sorry. 10 minutes later and nothing so ended up leaving. After an hour and half of the serving staff blaming the kitchen as being understaffed.

We wasn't the only table to experience this whilst others enjoyed a 3 course while others sat there looking glum faced and very hungry. My dinning partner commented the service is never that good in there but the food makes up for it. But frankly 1 hr 30 mins of excuse was more than i could bare to be truthful!

9:23 AM, February 11, 2008  
Anonymous Nina said...

Went in for a casual Sunday late breakfast recently.

I ordered Eggs Florentine.

It arrived with VERY undercooked eggs(the white was transparent on top) and dry unappetising spinach.

I apologetically asked the waiter if I could have my eggs a bit more cooked. He took my dish away and promptly came back with the same plate of food stating that the chef said that this is how poached eggs are...

Quite shockingly it was the attitude of 'like it or lump it'.

I will say, the manager did take notice and apologise to me for the chef's attitude and ask if I wanted something else.

A bit too little too late...

My boyfriend's bacon sandwich was basic with not much filling and the coffee was teeny.

Not a very good sign if a chef can't even cook an egg in a restaurant called 'The Breakfast Club'.

I would not recommend this eaterie.

11:43 PM, April 29, 2009  
Anonymous H. P. Wells said...

The best branch of the breafast club, but they're all good. Top-notch ingredients.

11:17 AM, April 24, 2010  
Anonymous Dave said...

I do like the full monty here. One of the best brekkies around. Shame about those darn queues though.

11:55 PM, October 06, 2010  
Anonymous Breakfast Club Essay said...

well post, i was looking the same for my breakfast club essay help.

Essay on Breakfast Club

8:09 PM, October 24, 2010  

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