The London Review of Breakfasts

"Hope is a good breakfast, but it is a bad supper." (Francis Bacon)

Saturday, October 08, 2005

Village Café, Gospel Oak

Village Café
147 Highgate rd
Gospel Oak
020 7267 1840

by Hashley Brown

A quick perusal of the Village Café menu with its multi-combo breakfast deals was sufficient to ascertain a few basics. The sausage would be of the long, deep fried variety, bacon would probably be cooked on one side, and the ketchup would be some non-Heinz catering substitute. This aside the only notable feature was the offer of a selection of “home-made food”, casting a certain shadow of gastronomic doubt over the origins of the rest of the menu.

A long, slightly ramshackle establishment, the formica tables came with a complimentary copy of the Daily Star – a red-top that seems to shout all its headlines in near-illiterate four word rants, whilst apparently believing that reporting what happened in last night’s Corrie counts as news. Reading the heart breaking news of EGG MAN CHILD DEATH it became apparent that a cheery demeanour was definitely not on the must-haves list for their waiting staff - however what arrived was a breakfast that hit the spot.

As Malcolm Eggs tucked into his hearty omelette (with its own extended family of chips), my sausage, eggs, bacon, tomato, and toast filled a greasy meaty yearning that befits an early Sunday afternoon breakfast. Sausage quality aside, the cooking was good – crispy bacon, runny yet firm egg, and well griddled tomatoes. Sated, and initial expectations exceeded, I wasn’t disappointed. Don’t expect too much and you’ll be happy with your Village Café breakfast – just take your own paper.


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