Bull & Last, Gospel Oak
168 Highgate Road
020 7267 8955
by Blake Pudding
I awoke confused and ashamed on New Year's Day promising myself that 2006 would be more dignified than 2005. I had a text message waiting for me from Malcolm Eggs, our visionary leader, suggesting a restorative walk on Hampstead Heath. Imagine my delight when I arrived and discovered who else had been summoned: Sigmund Fried, Ed Benedict, Mabel Syrup and Channel 4's publicity Svengali Toby Jones. This was a meeting of minds not seen since Vienna in the 1920's!
We decided to go for a pint at the Bull and Last near the Heath and in such company it would have been perverse if we did not have breakfast too. If only we had stuck to the booze. First of all the price: £7.95 for a full English Breakfast. Outrageous! For this money you would expect a Medcalf (see earlier review) standard of ingredients. Instead I received some lukewarm tinned mushrooms, a cold tomato that had been near a grill, a piece of dried up over-salty bacon, two sausages and an egg. Of all these horrors the most horrible were the sausages which resembled small fingers that had been partly mangled in a lawn mower and then repaired by a drunken half-wit who had never seen a finger before. Needless to say that they were also cold. This place masquerades as a gastro pub but somewhere that took pride in its food would prefer not to offer anything than to insult its customers by offering such appalling food. Little did they realise that they had picked the wrong table to insult.