DK's Cafe, Victoria
68 Wilton Rd
020 7963 0981
by Gracie Spoon
Victoria Station: nemesis of the Southbound. It seems such a shame to have anything good to say about it or its 500-metre radius. But the thing is, I found a café, had a breakfast and lucked upon a merciful cocoon from the Victoria reality, as not one single frustrating, overpriced or incompetent thing even tried to happen.
Featuring a mirrored wall, a windowed wall and a sudden, dense forest of wooden tables, DK's on Wilton Rd has the air of a stereotypical French bar, except the ashtrays were clean and so were the floor and the staff. My veggie all-dayer (£5 including tea or coffee: special offer on a weekday) was to be praised for many reasons: perhaps most notably for the fact that it didn’t resort to fake meat to make up the numbers, instead piling on pleasingly crispy hash browns and potato wedges amongst the usual eggs, toast and tomatoes. As an ensemble, the breakfasts favoured taste over slime: our eggs were a lightweight joy and my whole grilled tomato was a vibrant advertisement for the 5-a-day campaign. The good-looking Eggs Benedict (£5) was rightfully generous with the hollandaise and, more controversially, with the ham. Although my companion was mildly perturbed by what he felt was a superfluity of meat, a reaction like this may well depend on your tastes and overall ham threshold. Special mention to the drinks, as the apple juice was unexpectedly freshly squeezed, and the coffee was a pleasure: strong but slow, unlike the thin sloppy mugfuls of angst I’m used to paying out for.
DKs served us an unpretentiously priced breakfast with just enough of the ponce to keep everything the right side of clean, fresh and tasty. Move the station north a bit, and I’ll happily go back.