Fifteen, Shoreditch

Fifteen
15 Westland Place
Shoreditch
N1
0871 330 1515
www.fifteenrestaurant.com

by Yolko Ono

This was my second visit to the wooden and faintly rustic domain of Jamie Oliver. I steamed in late and was ushered in by a chummy waiter. Numerous staff – both waiters and chefs - bustled around the open plan kitchen on the ground floor, giving it a vibrant but not hectic buzz. Apparently Fifteen’s profits go towards taking on 30 unemployed youngsters every year to train as “the next generation of chefs”.

My coffee, although served in charming crockery, was both too hot and stronger than Andre the Giant. As for my Full Monty, it consisted of tasty but slightly overcooked Cumberlands, sweet cured and perfectly fried bacon, organic fried eggs that were not too googy and not too firm, black pudding which I poked timidly but found a tad threatening for my foggy morning, chunky mushrooms that looked great but were ultimately uninspiring, and deep crimson Isle of Wight tomatoes, which were juicy and deliciously sweet. One of my buddies had the Bubble and Squeak, which was a good-sized portion that she could happily wolf it down without feeling more like a blimp than a bubble. My other companion chose the veg brekky, which at £6.50 is more “pukka” for your pound: creamy scrambled eggs, those big mushies and succulent tomatoes on sourdough. If and when I get back there it’ll be the veg brekky that gets my vote.

It’s an enjoyable experience and I’ll admit the trimmings make it more so - the scented candle in the loo, the nice crockery, and the friendly but not overbearing staff, and of course the “love Jamie O xxx” on the base of every menu left me feeling all warm and fuzzy. Cause he really cares.