The Pavilion Café, Victoria Park, Hackney
E9 5DU (Map)
by Moose Lee
One moment Elliot’s café was there – close to my flat, cheap, charmingly unpopular – and the next, like Kaiser Soze, it was gone.
There was no “We Have Moved To Victoria Park” sign. No “You Will Find Us If Only You Open Your Heart.” Nothing.
This is my fault, I thought.
I should have written a more passionate review. I should have pleaded: “Residents of London, tell everyone to stop frying: Elliot’s have won breakfast.”
But no, I didn’t say that. I said that it was good but they’d cooked the sausages the wrong way – butterfly’d – and that I would have liked two instead of one.
Typical. I destroy everything I love.
But I underestimated the LRB’s subtle network of fry-up sensitive noses. It was soon discovered that Elliot’s had not disappeared but had, in fact, moved to the pavilion in Vicky park. Cathy Latte was quickly on the case but, I’m pleased to report, got distracted by a chip shop. You snooze you lose.
Me and Ms Lee got on our bikes – we actually did exercise to reach our hallowed breakfast.
Nervously, I asked them why Elliot’s moved from the old location, expecting the answer: “Well, there was this damning review of our sausages…”
But no, apparently the previous location was just the wrong size, it was empty during the weekdays and then when it was busy, there wasn’t enough room.
Guilt alleviated, I ordered my old favourite: a veggie breakfast with extra sausage and bacon. By God, my faith in the power of journalism was restored because, all the stuff that used to be perfect remained perfect – thick dark bacon, lovely bread, crushed avocado, home-made beans – and the sausages, they were stunning, uncut, full of juicy goodness. And two of them!
But. One thing. I can’t help myself…
The prices have gone up and, although the view of the lake is lovely, the venue’s a bit… well… paviliony.