The London Review of Breakfasts

"Hope is a good breakfast, but it is a bad supper." (Francis Bacon)

Friday, September 29, 2006

Yo! Sushi, Gatwick Airport

Yo! Sushi
North Terminal Airside
Gatwick Airport
West Sussex
01293 602 070

by Hashley Brown

Fast, fun, fresh breakfast. Not a bad slogan for the holy meal, although I'd probably take issue with speed being an integral part of the breakfasting canon. And some may say that putting a box of Coco Pops on a conveyor belt is pushing the fun definition a little too far. But as one who has grown weary of below par airport breakfasting, I thought I'd take Yo! Sushi at their word.

Now when leaving Tokyo, I always take the opportunity to partake of one more steaming bowl of ramen noodles, some pork dumplings and a glass of beer, especially if at breakfast time. Yo! Sushi, who are in danger of re-branding Japanese cuisine for the English until it resembles pub food on a conveyor belt, couldn't quite help me there, and at first glance this seemed to be no more than revolving cereals for sale. Fresh fruit, some pancakes, all whizzed past my saddening eyes, until I met the offer of a hot Japanese breakfast.

Component parts of the 'Full Nippon' include grilled fish, hot rice, some pickles and a bowl of miso soup. At best this is an elegantly simple way to start the day, at worst a grease free belly filler, and Yo! Sushi's efforts fell somewhere in between. Good rice, excellent miso soup, and a tasty piece of salmon that in an effort to be more 'fun!' had been liberally and unnecessarily smeared with a spicy marinade. More effort with the pickles would have been welcomed and the inclusion of a salad that was so lifeless it looked like it had been grilled with the fish, only served to strengthen my feeling that British airport restaurants don't actually care what they serve their customers.

But walking away I felt full and content, and for only £5 I didn't feel cheated either. Nice try Yo! Sushi, but maybe Breakfast! doesn't need that extra exclamation mark.


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