The London Review of Breakfasts

"Hope is a good breakfast, but it is a bad supper." (Francis Bacon)

Wednesday, April 18, 2007

Fernandez & Wells, Soho

Fernandez & Wells
73 Beak Street
020 7734 1546

by Armand Croissant

Brightness, cleanliness: the polish of light wood, the glint of light from the coffee machine, the low murmur of awakening media types. Open, airy, the breakfasting half of Fernandez & Wells is as welcome as a half-bottle of flat coke to a hungover student – sweet, refreshing, life-saving. Oh, I could rhapsodise about the friendly staff, the glass of water placed – unasked - reverently and carefully beside the brimming, white perfection of the latte; the puffy, slightly sugary taste of the croissant. But instead I choose as my poetic theme the black pudding and egg mayonnaise sandwich. Oh gods, who have banished the black pudding from the ordinary breakfast table, why hast thou done such a thing? A light, biscuity roll, slightly toasted, with just enough creamy egg and two slices of the black stuff; such a sandwich might have graced the plates of decadent, syphilis-struck Spanish dons, exiled to the sweltering madness of Mexico.

And what is more is that Fernandez & Wells have a lunch place too, on Lexington Street, which in the evening transforms itself into a wine shop. Although the prices slightly creep towards the expensive, it is worth it, and after going there one can never quite face the stodgy horror of Pret a Manger again. Which is bad for the coffers, but good for the soul, and as everyone knows, there is no wealth anyway but the wealth of the soul.


Anonymous Anonymous said...

I so agree with this post. Such a smart interior, competent, personable staff but ultimately THE best coffee and cakes in SOHO.

5:17 PM, April 27, 2009  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

... and now in South Ken (Exhibition Rd) too.

5:25 PM, February 02, 2013  

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