Green and Fortune Cafe, Kings Cross
020 7014 2840
by Hashley Brown
Trout in the morning is not one of my usual breakfastly ambitions, but today the trout in question was lightly griddled into a set of variations by Franz Schubert, from his perky lieder Die Forelle. Served by the Schubert Ensemble this seems to be what they do for morning entertainment at Kings Cross's latest architectural triumph.
Let's take a step back. Kings Place, soon to be a new home to the Guardian and the London Sinfonietta amongst others, was having a bit of a party to celebrate its glass and steel entrance into the world. Packed full of art, music, restaurants and, well, liberal lefty office tenants, this is the new face of the arse-end of York Way, and by means of an introduction they were putting on 100 concerts in 5 days. Trotting down on the vélo, I'd picked a morning recital to experience the acoustics of the new halls and for a spot of Friday morning elevation before the first wearisome meeting of the day. I knew that the music would be impeccable, and had heard that the acoustics were sparkly, but what I hadn't banked on was the breakfast.
Green and Fortune is the umbrella corp set up to man the food decks for Kings Place, and their cafe sits prettily in a corner of the building's central atrium. The breakfast selection glistening on a hot-plate offered plump cumberland sausages and thick cut cumbrian bacon as well as a veggie flat mushroom and grilled tomato combo. Ever the glutton I combined the veggie option with the bacon and watched with glee as they split a fresh crusty roll and applied liberal amounts of real butter before cramming in the fillings. This was quite some roll, absolutely top notch ingredients that had suffered not one bit for sitting out on display. The nicely smoked bacon was rich in flavour, the mushroom was suitably earthy and the tomato, as well as exploding down my shirt, was grilled to a succulent softness. Capped with a dark brooding latte and coming in at just under a fiver, there really was no better way to prepare for the breakfast trout that followed.